Omoide Yokocho

Exit D3 of Shinjuku-nishiguchi station drops you straight into Omoide Yokocho, a little enclave of an alley between a boulevard and a massive train line overpass. But most tourists will arrive via the sprawling Shinjuku station, notorious even among locals for being a maze. I think we walked from Kabukicho.

A neighboring highrise is visible, but its massive lit sign just looks like another sign for an alleyway restaurant.

In blocking the sky from view, the highrise doesn’t remind of the surrounding city as much as it enhances the feeling of seclusion, a bustling sanctuary.

Walking down the alley is an experience of peering into tiny adjacent worlds, mostly yakitori shops. Restaurants are bar style seating – a large one might seat eight.

The alley is dense but ends quickly. We had already eaten dinner, but we walked back and forth at least twice just to get our fill of the sights and smells.